Candidasa
itself is a small fishing village, located entirely along
the lone road
snaking along the coastline. It is a fishing village, home
to a number
of small guest houses, and a jumping-off point for exploring
the
surrounding
inland villages. Candidasa boasts an impressive number of
hotels,
restaurants,
and tour services. The photo to the left, looking south on
the
outskirts
of town, shows the beautiful palm trees that line the coast.
Taken a
bit
further north, the other photo shows the distinctive
outrigger sailing
craft
the Balinese use for fishing.
One
of
our longer walks took us toward the interior of the island,
a 5
kilometer
(3 mile) trek up the hills to the village of Tenganan, the
home of two
cottage industries: tight, hand-woven baskets and the
age-old "double
ikat"
weaving. The pictures taken here are scenes along the way to
Tenganan;
unfortunately, it was rainy the day we actually walked
there, so we
have
no pictures of Tenganan. The photo to the left was one of
the first
fields
we encountered that was not devoted to rice; you can see
that the
mountains
in eastern Bali extend nearly to the coast. The photo to the
right was
taken of a road directly leading into one of the many little
desas that
dot the narrow road to Tenganan.
Tenganan
specializes
in a very unique type of basketry. Tightly woven, the
baskets
are firm and rich in texture and detail. After they are
woven the
baskets
are then smoked to give them their distinctive color. We
risked a
monsoon
downpour to hike the five kilometers up the mountain to
barter for a
variety
of baskets. Actually, we purchased some in Candidasa, and
sought the
more
unusual baskets at their source, in Tenganan. The photo at
left shows a
sampling of the baskets we had upon our return to the Water
Garden
bungalow.
We left them outside, as they still reeked of smoke.
(Tracy's sister
Alex
will tell you that takes years for the scent to go
away, but
our fingers are
crossed...)
The photo at the right shows one of the shops nearer
Candidasa wherein
Tracy had the fun of bargaining for the purchase of still a
few more
baskets.
Of
course hiking and shopping (at least in the little villages)
is
primarily
a daytime activity. What about the evenings? Candidasa is
(fortunately?)
not out to rival Kuta for nightlife, but has enough going
on. For
instance,
one night we splurged and went to the Serai, an upscale
hotel for a
fabulous,
if somewhat expensive (at least by Bali standards) meal,
while the
other
two nights we ate at TJ's, the more-than-adequate restaurant
at The
Water
Garden (the photo to the left shows us at TJ's). The last
night we
strolled
down the road until we found some live music at a nearby
bar: Five
musicians
reading the lyrics to American songs off a well-worn
mimeographed
lyrics
book. It was a priceless performance, as the band showed
great
inventiveness
with regard to the lyrics. And they did EVERYTHING--, well,
from Dire
Straits
to Billy Ray Cyrus, anyway! The highlight (not only for me,
but for the
whole bar, judging by the applause) was when Tracy joined
them onstage,
leading the band through a rendition of "Angel from
Montgomery." I am
quite certain it will be nominated for anAmerican Music
Award
(Category: Best performance by an American
singer
with an Indonesian band).
We
departed from Candidasa and headed to Nusa Dua, our last
stop in Bali.
The weather finally caught up with us, and we were not able
to
photograph
the pretty bungalow on the beach where we stayed at Putri
Bali.
However,
enroute, we stopped at Jimbaran Bay, a popular seafood haunt
close to
Nusa
Dua. We dined on grilled lobster and crab, and watched the
sights.
Although
there weren't many tourists there, the local fisherman were
out in full
force, both those using nets from the shore and those in the
outriggers.
The photo at the left shows the view of Jimbaran Bay, while
theo the
photo
to the right shows a shore fisherman snagging his catch.