Palazzo Ducale [Doge's Palace]

The Palazzo Ducale was the official residence of the 120 Doges who ruled Venice for 1100 years, from 697-1797. It began as a fortress-like structure in the 9th century, while the more Gothic version seen today began in the 1500's and was marred by a string of fires. The style of the building remains eclectic, a combination of Byzantine and Renaissance as well as Gothic styles. Its interior is decorated by the likes of Titian, Tintoretto and Bellini, as all the leading artists of the day strove to gain the patronage of the Venice's ruling family. Any tour of the Palazzo Ducale begins in San Marco Square, which offers a view of the pink and cream stonework which stands above the double set of arches looking out over Piazza San Marco and the quay.



Visitors entering the Palazzo Ducale begin their tour by walking through a large courtyard and ascending to the second level of the courtyard (photo to the left) that provides access to the private apartment of the Doges. Entry is gained via the Scala d'Oro the sumptuous Golden Staircase, shown in the photo to the right. It features classical stucco decorations in 14 carat gold-leaf-framing frescoes. This stairway was used to lead guests of honor to the doge's meeting rooms. Designed by Sansovino, it was later completed by Scarpaginino in 1559. The private quarters of the doges are very similar in size and decor to those found in the Uffizzi Galleries in Florence. They are dark, usually covered with textured wallpaper and, of course, covered with masterpieces. The photo at the lower left shows the exterior hallway leading to a series of doge's apartments. This gives one some sense of the grandeur of the Palazzo Ducale. They certainly were dwellings fit for a king.

Of course, the palace was much more than a residence for the Doges. It was the nerve center of a mercantile empire that was in continuous existence for 1100 years and which held sway over much of the Mediterranean. Accordingly, there are a number of impressive meeting rooms where the government of Venice conducted its business. These are one floor above the apartments of the doges. Foremost among these were the Sala del Maggior or Great Council Chamber, and the Sala del Senato, where the representatives of the Venetian city-state assembled. The Great Council Chamber, shown in the photo to the left, is a huge meeting hall lined with canvasses depicting Venetian victories. Of particular note is possibly the world's largest oil painting, Paradise by Jacopo and Domenico Tintoretto, which occupies the back wall of the room. The photo (actually a postcard scan) to the right shows the Sala del Senato. The Senate members who met in this lavish hall were nobles entrusted with debating foreign affairs and trade with the doge. Time was measured by two clocks--one with a 24 hour face and one zodiac signs.




Another interesting room in the Doge's Palace is the Sala dello Scuda, a chart room. (photo to the left) one wall contains a map of the known world, while the middle of the room contains two globes that reveal the Venetian's grasp of the world in 1762. The map of Eastern Asia traces the route of favorite son Marco Polo's journey to China, complete with camels, rhinoceros and the mythical "Uncharted Lands of the People Eaters." Also located in the palace is the Armory, a huge collection of beautifully crafted firearms, ceremonial weapons and suits of armor from East and West. Among the war trophies in the Armory is a Turkish standard brought back by the victorious Venetians from the Battle of Lepanto in 1571.



There is another, darker side to the palace just across the canal from the palace proper. Access to the prison is gained via the covered bridge, aptly named Ponte de Sospiri, or "The Bride of Sighs." Ranking among the most famous bridges in the world, it is an early 17th century Baroque structure. Lavishly decorated on the outside, its rather bleak interior marks the passageway from the doge's center of power to the place where those who fell from disfavor were condemned. Reputedly it derives its name from the sighs of the condemned as they peered out its small windows at their last views of the sea and freedom. The photo to the left offers a view of the Ponte de Sospiri. Beyond the bridge is an enormous maze of cells, linked by corridors and staircases on both sides of the canal. Perhaps the most famous inmate was Casanova, who made a dramatic escape from the prison across the rooftops in 1756. The newer of these very basic cells (shown in the photo to the right) were in use until 1940.



Some of the other prominent architectural features of the Palazzo are only visible as one exits the palace. This is because the traditional entrance through the Porta della Carta is now the exit of the tour. As one exits the administrative wing of the palace, the Arco Foscari (photo on the left) comes into view. This triumphal archway of pink and cream stone layers leading to the Giant's Staircase was commissioned by Doge Foscari in 1438. Standing under the arch of the Arco Foscari brings visitors to the Giant's staircase, so-named from its two colossal statues of Mars and Neptune, which were sculpted by Sansovino in 1567 as symbols of Venice's power. Visiting dignitaries would ascend the marble-lined stairs to the palace. Below is a 360 degree panorama of the exterior of the Palazzo Ducale by Eugene Orlav.

Panorama of the Exterior of Palazzo Ducale 

Some of the Highlights of the Palazzo Ducale:

Paradise by Jacopo and Domenico Tintoretto is possibly the largest oil painting in the world. It was begun in 1588 and finished two years later, occupying one entire wall of the Sala del Maggio Consiglio or Grand Council Chamber, and contains over 800 figures.







Tintoretto's The Triumph of Venice decorates the ceiling of the Sala del Senato. Extolling the virtues of the Venetian state, the painting displays allegorical and mythical figures proferring fruits of the sea to Venice.








Rape of Europe by Veronese is an allegorical work, painted in 1580, which shows Europe sitting on a bull, alias, Jove, who is nuzzling her foot.












Drunkenness of Noah is a sculpture from the early 1400's which adorns the facade's southeast corner. It portrays an inebriated and half-dressed Noah before his sons, portraying the weakness of man.
 

Video Tour of Palazzo Ducale by Fran Travels