Rialto Market
The Rialto Market is as bustling today as it has ever been. It is not only a market, but also a center of law and the historical heart of Venice. It takes its name from the Italian work Rivoaltus, the high ground that is free from the city's perennial flood waters. The market itself stretches back into history; references to the Rialto Market can be found as early as 1067. However, the architecture is primarily from the 16th century, due to a fire that swept through this high ground in 1514. It remains a place with its roots in the past, as stall vendors still dress up in medieval garb for Carnival.
Access to the Rialto Market is gained
via an alley that branches off of the Rialto Bridge and runs behind the
Palazzo dei Camerlenghi. Although the market may look chaotic at first
glance, it is in fact very orderly, laid out according to the type of
produce. For instance, directly behind the Palazzo dei Camerlenghi is a
small square which is where the butchers may be found. At the end of
the square the fruit stand shown in the photo to the left demarcates
the boundary between the butchers and the fruit and vegetable stalls.
The covered area in the photo at the top of the page shows the entire
area. A treat
for the senses, with artistic piles of peaches, cherries, thorny
artichokes and red chicory from Treviso. Fruit and vegetables (as well
as fish) tend to be seasonal. It is widely regarded as the finest
market in Europe. The photo to the right offers a close-up of the stall
area and the produce.
Next
to the fruits and vegetables lies my favorite
market, the Pescheria or fish market. If the marine life can be caught
and transported to Venice, you can bet that the pick of the fleet is to
be found here. Octopus, eel, soft-shelled crab and shrimps of all
variety are off-loaded from the Grand Canal six days a week, along with
turbot, red snapper, dory fish, and tuna. Many of the great restaurants
in Venice do not settle on their menu items before inspecting what is
best at the Pescheria. But get there early--by midmorning everything is
packed away. The photo to the right shows the double-storied Pescheria
from a nearby canal bridge, while the photo on the right shows a second
fish market, located directly behind the first.
Commerce and law
have historically been intertwined, and this is no more apparent that
at the Rialto Market. Between the Pescheria and the Rialto Bridge lie
two of Venice's most important government offices. The Fabbriche Nuove
(photo to the left)
are the law courts whose 25 arches front the Grand Canal. It was
designed in 1552 by Sansovino, and took three years to complete.
Between the Rialto Bridge and the Fabbriche Nuove lies the Palazzo dei
Camerlenghi (photo to the right). This lopsided 1525 palace once
imprisoned debtors on the
ground floor (good thing it was located on high ground) but the top
floors were offices for the city treasures (the camerlenghi).
There is another
unique feature of the Rialto Market, and that is its ferry. While the
Rialto bridge is less than 100 meters away, there is a direct ferry
across the Grand Canal from the Pescheria. It is called the traghetto
ferry, and is only one of eight still in operation. Custom dictates
that passengers should remain standing for the duration of the trip.
The traghetto is shown in the photo to the right. While picture taking
in front of the Palazzo dei Camerlenghi, I snapped this picture of a
wedding party heading down the Grand Canal in a gondola. This is shown
in the photo to the right.
Below is a 360-degree walkthrough of the Rialto Market. Try not to
salivate!