
We took a bus from
Stockholm's central station to Kalmar on the mainland and then
rejoined our hosts Lotta and Bo for a visit to the island of Öland,
where they have a holiday house. Access to the island is via
the bridge shown in the photo to the left. The Öland Bridge
(Ölandsbron) connects Kalmar to Färjestaden on the island of
Öland to its east. At 6,072 meters (19,921 ft) long, it is one
of the longest in Europe. It is supported by 156
pillars, and has a characteristic hump at its western end
which was created to provide a vertical clearance of 36 m for
shipping. An impressive sight and a stylish way to enter Färjestaden.
Färjestaden Hamn is the
harbor on Öland that is directly across
from Kalmar, and those not wishing to take the bridge across
may do so from the mainland to this harbor. On weekends it is
the site of a large market, which we visited with our hosts on
the last day of our stay. The photo to the left shows a map of
the harbor area, while the photo to the right offers a glimpse
of the harbor. Visible in the photo is the ferry from Kalmar
to Färjestaden.
Långe Jan ("Tall John") is a
Swedish lighthouse located at the south cape of Öland in the
Baltic Sea. It is a companion lighthouse to Erik, located at
the northern end of the island. The lighthouse was built in
1785, by Russian prisoners of war. The tower was built of
stone from an old chapel. Originally the light was an open
fire, and the tower was unpainted. It was painted white in
1845, and the same year the tower's lantern was installed, a
colza oil lamp. A couple of years later a black band was added
to the tower. The lighthouse remains in use and is
remote-controlled by the Swedish Maritime Administration in
Norrköping. During the summer season it is possible to climb
the tower, for a small fee. The buildings surrounding the
tower form the Ottenby birding station.Worth
visiting is the Naturum, a small building containing dioramas
and information about the birds that can be seen here. Just
below the lighthouse is a Vindskyddet or lean-to, a shelter
from which you may watch the birds or the seals sunning
themselves (when possible) on the rocky beach. These are shown
in the panorama below.
There is also
a version of this tour designed
specifically for VR headsets such as
Google Cardboard, and it works with both
iPhone and Android devices. It may be
access by scanning on the QR code to the
left. If you are viewing this on a mobile
phone, you may access the VR tour by
following this
link.
For iOS devices: scan QR code with your
device's camera app, tap on the prompt to open Safari.
Select "Allow Device Motion" and the next prompt,
"Allow Access to Motion Orientation." Turn the device
to landscape mode and a split screen will appear. When
the screen turns white, swipe up for fullscreen mode,
and place in headset. Here
is a video of how to do this--it is simpler
than it sounds! [The video opens in a new
window--close when done to return to this page]
Traveling north from Långe Jan
we passed through an area reserved for grazing sheep and cattle
until arriving at Karl X Gustafs Mur, a stone wall that seals
off the southern tip of the island. The somewhat strange-looking
structure was built in 1653 at the behest of King Karl X Gustaf,
and it was designed as a clear mark to show everyone where the
royal territory began. For its construction the tax farmers on
the island were forced to perform community service, as well as
prisoners whose sentences had been converted into compulsory
labor. It was once the hunting preserve of the king, and those
who poached were severely punished. In fact, according to Bo,
dogs in the area had to have one leg severed, lest they
chase the king's game. After passing through this gate at
a central point on the island, the terrain gives way to
savannah-like grassland that is a feature of the central area of
Södra Öland.
Stora Alvaret is an alvar, a barren limestone
terrace in the southern half of the island of Öland. It is a
dagger-shaped expanse almost 40 kilometres (25 mi) long and
about 10 kilometres (6.2 mi) at the widest north end. The area
of this formation exceeds 260 square kilometres (100 sq mi),
making it the largest such expanse in Europe and comprising over
one fourth of the land area of the island. Because of the thin
soil mantle and high ph levels, a great assortment of vegetation
is found, including numerous rare species. Stora Alvaret is not
devoid of trees, contrary to a common misconception; in fact, it
holds a variety of sparse stunted trees akin to a pygmy forest.
Stora Alvaret falls within UNESCO's Agricultural Landscape of
Southern Öland, and was designated World Heritage site due to
its extraordinary biodiversity and prehistory.
Located on
the Stora Alvaret, Eketorsp Borg is an Iron Age fort which was
extensively reconstructed and enlarged in the Middle Ages.
Throughout the ages the fortification has served a variety of
somewhat differing uses: from defensive ringfort, to medieval
safe haven and later a cavalry garrison. In the 20th century it
was further reconstructed to become a heavily visited tourist
site and a location for re-enactment of medieval battles.
Eketorps Borg is the only one of the 19 known prehistoric
fortifications on Öland that has been completely excavated,
yielding a total of over 24,000 individual artifacts. Below is a
YouTube video of the fortress and below that our virtual tour of
Eketorp, which highlight some of its more interesting features.
There is
also a version of this tour designed
specifically for VR headsets such as Google
Cardboard, and it works with both iPhone and
Android devices. It may be access by scanning
on the QR code to the left. If you are viewing
this on a mobile phone, you may access the VR
tour by following this
link.
For iOS devices: scan QR code with your device's camera app, tap on the prompt to open Safari. Select "Allow Device Motion" and the next prompt, "Allow Access to Motion Orientation." Turn the device to landscape mode and a split screen will appear. When the screen turns white, swipe up for fullscreen mode, and place in headset. Here is a video of how to do this--it is simpler than it sounds! [The video opens in a new window--close when done to return to this page]
For Android devices: Open the camera app and use the built-in scanner to scan the QR code above. Confirm that you want to open the website, and wait for it to load--it should load in stereo view. Select the fullscreen ("X" option) from the menu at the bottom. Turn the device to landscape mode and you are ready to go. Here is a video of how to do this--it is simpler than it sounds! [The video opens in a new window--close when done to return to this page]
Following our visit to
Eketorps Borg, it was time for a bit of lunch. Bo drove to Gräsgård
Harbor,
where we dined on open-faced sandwiches of fish (I believe
they are called smørrebrød, although I do not know the
variety of fish used) and admired the view of the
harbor. Our repast is shown in the photo to the left,
while the views of the harbor may be seen in the panorama
below. A fitting end to our afternoon of sightseeing.

Resmo Kyrkan is Sweden's
oldest preserved church in continous existence, dating
from the first millenium. The panel above shows its
progression from a humble church around 1000 C.E. to its
present form, shown in the photo at the upper left. The
church itself is surrounded on two sides by gravesites,
but the burial site itself dates from Pre-christian times
(photo at the upper right). The Resmo Church was the
creation of a Viking chief, Sveinu, who most likely
encountered Christianity and converted during his travels,
bringing the faith to Resmo. He replaced the existing
wooden church with one fashioned from stone. Given its
atypical construction, it is likely that Sveinu brought
Danish or Northern German craftsmen with him, as the
architecture of the original church was not native to
Sweden. The church is entered through the porch at the
ground floor of the tower; access originally required
three locks for access—one from each warden and the resident
priest. The interior of the church is open, although
originally it was only dimly lit
owing
to the small windows (photo, middle
left).
To
the left of the entrance is the Harvest Altar, donated in
2006 by the artist's family as an expression of thanks for
God's bountiful gifts (photo,
middle right). Moving toward the
front, there is a pulpit to the left, in the the place of
the medieval altar (photo bottom left). On the
opposite side, where the baptismal font stands, was
yet another altar. The dove above the font is a reminder
of the promise of baptism. A triumphal crucifix
stands in between the nave and the quire. On the walls are
paintings including Jesus being arrested and brought
before Pilate. Passing the transept and
entering the quire leads to the altar, which is as old as
the church itself. It is usually decorated with
communion silver from the 18th and 18th centuries. The
apse features Christ in
Glory.
In his right hand, Christ
holds
a book and in his left hand a spire with a cross; the
mural is from the early 12th century and was influenced by
Eastern Christian icon tradition. The cruxifix, altar and
apse are shown in the table of photos below![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
| Triumphal
Cruxifix |
Resmo
Kyrkan
Altar |
Christ in Glory |

The town of Vickleby is
the site of a private crafts college founded in the late
1950s by Carl Malmsten, who had a great vision: he bought
a number of decaying farmhouses on the island and
replanted them here. He transformed these buildings into a
living community with student houses, workshops, and
studios. He wanted to design furniture and utensils that
paid tribute to old Swedish traditions and the "forms of
nature." Today the college is a training school for
cabinet making, woodworking, ceramics, textiles, design,
and horticulture. It also has one of Sweden's largest herb
gardens, containing a wide variety of unusual plants.
During the summer, the college stages exhibitions and 
sales in the old Vickleby
school. We toured the portions of the Capella school that
were operating in midsummer, taking a look at their
handicrafts. Entering through the garden, there was a
profusing of flowering plants as well as a well-laid out
garden explaining the design and the flora it contained.
This is shown in the photo at the upper right. From there
we went to the kitchen and dining room area and met the
director of the school (photo, middle left). In an
adjacent wing of the same building we were able to observe
the woodworking and furniture design school, shown in the
photo at the middle right. Moving across the courtard
outside this main building, we found the outdoor kiln used

by the ceramics school
(pictured in the photo at the bottom left). From there we
wandered back through the gardens to visit the shop where
the handicrafts were on display (photo at bottom right).
Below is a video which provides a more extensive overview
of the Capella School.