Miyajima Island and Shrine
One of the most beautiful
spots in Japan
is Miyajima Island, located a short distance from Hiroshima. Accessible
only by boat, Miyajima Island is home to more than a dozen temples and
shrines, several parks, museums and even a cable car route to the
island's summit! To do justice to the island would take a full day.
However, in February we limited ourselves to the sites nearest the
ferry (and potential places of warmth). The journey began by ferry from
Miyajimaguchi and the first landmark that came in view as one
approached the island was the Otorii gate shown in the photo to the
left. Disembarking from the
ferry terminal, we took a stroll through the town located on the
island. Walking past shops and restaurants, we came upon one of the
perennial favorites of the area, the world's largest rice scoop, shown
in the photo to the right. The method of making it was conceived by a
Buddhist priest named Seishin during the Edo Period. Its
characteristics are that the scent of the wood is not transferred to
the rice (why can't they do that with Chardonnay?) and it is resistant
to heat. Now they are considered a talisman of good luck. At the end of
the small town, a second gray Torii gate (photo at lower left) opens
unto a small park and promontory overlooking the main Torii gate; here,
as elsewhere on the island, deer abound, and feeding them is one of the
things one does on a trip to Miyajima Island.
One
of the major attractions of Miyajima Island is the Itsukushima Shrine.
Built in the latter half of the sixth century, the shrine was remodeled
by Taira-no-Kiyomori in 1168. It is an excellent example of the Shinden
style of architecture. Itsukushima shrine is built over the water in a
fashion such that the front of the temple faces the Torii gate at the
island's entrance. It is a sprawling affair. The photo to the left
shows the shrine from the promontory, while the photo to the left
details an increasingly familiar site--Japanese tourists, equipped with
cell phones that have digital cameras, taking pictures and relaying
them to friends and family. It gives a whole new meaning to "reach out
and touch somebody." The shrine is a
favorite wedding spot for wealthy couples, and we witnessed several
processions in our short tour of the Itsukushima Shrine. The photo at
the bottom left shows a newly wed couple graciously 
posing for a photo
before being whisked away in a limo.
Winding our way
down past the Itsukushima Shrine brings one to Shenjokaku, the popular
name of the main hall of the Hokoku Shrine. It is a library of Buddhist
sutras that Hideyoshi Toyotomi started to build in the Irimoya style
for the repose of the war dead. Due to his death before it was
completed, the board ceiling and front entrance remain unfinished. The
photo to the left shows the entrance to the main hall, while the photo
to the right looks down the length of the hall to the Five Storied
Pagoda (also shown in the photo at bottom left.) 27 meters high, the
Five-Storied Pagoda
was believed to have been built around 1407 and its architectural
style reflects a
combination of Japanese and Chinese design. The image of Buddha is
painted in full color on an inside wall of the pagoda. As an important
religious site, Miyajima Island is host to a number of annual
celebrations. These include: 
Bugaku:
an ancient musical
court dance, performed on a stage on the Itsukushima Shrine
Chankasai: a December 31st ceremony at the Itsukushima Shrine, where big bundles of pinewood are set ablaze, turning the seashore into a sea of fire.
Hiwatari-Shinji: in spring and autumn people walk barefoot on embers, praying for fulfillment of wishes
Kangensai: on the night of June 17th decorated boats (representing those of the monarchial period) cruise along the coast while Gagku music is played
Tamatorisai: a masculine festival on the sea in front of the Itsukushima Shrine where young men jostle for a precious wooden ball, a talisman of good luck, suspended on a frame
Confused about what building is where? The sites discussed above (as well as some of the other, important shrines and buildings) are shown on the map below
Finally a clickable map with 360 degree panoramas of the site is available here.
